Our last night in Madrid

Our last night in Madrid
Dinner with Pept

Sunday, May 22, 2011

May 22, 2011

Well, it's Sunday night and our last day in Spain.  It has been great and we have covered a lot of ground.  Today we decided to visit the Prado Museum whose permanent collections include the works of Velasquez, Goya, El Greco, Rubens, Tintoreto and many Dutch painters as well.  We decided to go there first and then to the Reina Sofia Museum afterwards to see Picasso's Guernica.  We spent 4 hours in the Prado Museum and we know we only scratched the surface.  We saw many incredible works by the Masters and used the audio-guide to help direct us to the most representative works of each master.  We ordered 5 digital prints of paintings which we especially liked.  After picking up some small souvenirs in the gift shop we headed to the Reina Sofia.  Unfortunately the museum closes at 2:30 on Sunday and we missed our opportunity to get there.

We opted to go back to the cathedral to see the inside of this gothic masterpiece.  We arrived just in time for a Mass and without planning, we ended up attending Mass in the Cathedral.  Afterwards, Mario took some pictures and I said the rosary which was led by one of the women who is obviously part of the staff.  We were shooed out of the cathedral before the next Mass started as no "visiting" is allowed during Mass.

We called Pepe and agreed to meet between 8 and 8:30 for dinner.  He picked out a Belgian place which is informal and specializes in breads, cheeses and middle Eastern spreads (hummus, etc.)  Mario and I had gazpacho and the three of us shared a bottle of red wine.  It was quite relaxing and a perfect way to wrap up our last day of our trip.  Tomorrow, it will be back to reality.  Thanks for following us!

May 21, 2011

This morning we decided to take the double decker tourist bus around the city with multiple stops allowing you to get on and off all day long.  We finished the first line in about an hour without getting off the bus.  Again, we had spectacular weather.  It was cool and sunny on the bus. We took the second line to the Bernabeu Stadium, home of the Real Madrid Soccer Club.  This club has incredible economic resources and has been the object of marketing cases in the Harvard Business School.  There was a game scheduled for the evening, but the self-guided tours were available for about $25.00 (dlls) each.  Of course, we had to do it for Mario because his favorite player and idol, Cristian Ronaldo (#7) plays for Real Madrid.  After spending close to 2 hours walking through the stadium, going through the museum, the trophy room and even sitting in the players' spots on the sidelines, you clearly understand why this is a case for Harvard.  The marketing is masterful and of course, we picked up a few goodies for Mario.

We got back on the bus and finished up the second line and then got "lunch" about 5.  We shared a paella and then walked back to our hotel.  We rested for about 40 minutes before our friend Pepe came back to get us for the evening.  Our schedules are entirely screwed up due to the night life here which we could not do forever.  I don't get how the people are out and about night after night until 2 or 3 in the morning and then go to work.

Pepe took us to one of his favorite bars where we had a beer and a light snack and then we took a taxi to his friend Menchu's house.  (Her name is Carmen, but she is called "Menchu.")  She had prepared a beautiful spread of typical Spanish fare and lots (LOTS) of wine.  There were friends of Pepe and Menchu there and in all, there were about 8 of us.  We had "dinner" around 11:00 on her rooftop terrace which overlooks the cathedral lit up at night.  It was so wonderful to be in that environment and we are very grateful to Pepe and Menchu for including us.

Tomorrow, we will visit the Queen Sophia museum and the Prado.  I don't think we will see the same people we saw at the stadium museum. Just one more day in paradise and then back to our real lives.

Saturday, May 21, 2011

May 20, 2011

We left Seville today to travel by train to Madrid.  We had decided to get first class so we could rest as we knew by this time, we would be super tired.  We shared the car with a couple, the grandmother and a baby who is overall terms was well-behaved.  She was noisy and towards the end of the ride needed to sleep.  We did not rest really on the train.  The grandmother brought the fussy baby back to our area and sat next to Mario so the baby's parents could rest.  Mario was very excited about that as you can imagine!

We checked into our hotel which is in the "old" Madrid-beautiful old buildings in the downtown area.  There is activity here 24-7.  We went out and walked over to the Tourism office and it was a sea of people...all kinds...working folks, kids, goths, some homeless, a few that looked like addicts living on the street and lots of tourists like us.  It looked like any other big city in terms of the people.  We are located near the two main squares where there are massive protests taking place, mostly by the young and well-educated who are unemployed and frustrated by the government's ability to create opportunities and career growth.  The local elections are Sunday and we will be steering clear of the conflicted areas.  There is a heavy police presence.

In the evening, our friend Pepe Cajigas, AKA "el pasito"  met us at the hotel and we did an extensive walking and eating tour. [Pepe (and Rocio) were our neighbors in Mexico City and were the first to see Mario when we brought him home from the hospital.]   It was wonderful having someone who really knows the history and developments explain all that we were seeing.  We walked down to the cathedral, the palace and many of the historical landmarks. We even found a Mexican restaurant-bar and we all cracked up as we saw the "Chapulin Colorado" flanking the entrance.  Inside there was a display of all the wrestler's masks.  We had a beer and moved on.  We ate in a restaurant called "Los Huevos de Lucio." Pepe knows a lot of the people there and got us a nice table and we ate like kings.  Saturday we will do the Tour-Bus and Sunday we will do the Prado and Queen Sophia Museums. This is a fabulous city with so much culture and history and we feel very safe here.

Thursday, May 19, 2011

May 19, 2011

First of all, Mario says that I was venting yesterday. That is what a blog is all about-reporting the immediate.  Last night we did have a nice dinner after all in Miguel Angel, right next to the hotel.  Today was much better but we walked for hours.  It will be impossible to communicate the opulence, grandeur and magnificence of everything we saw today, but I will give it a try. Just to give you an idea, we took over 500 pictures TODAY only!  We have a lot of editing and choices pending when we get back.

We signed up for a tour in the morning which included lunch.  Our first stop was the Cathedral of Seville.  It is the third largest in the world, after St. Peter's in Rome and St. Paul's in London.  Christopher Columbus' remains are located there.  There is so much silver and gold that you realize how much Spain pillaged Mexico and Peru.  In one monstrance (to hold the Holy Eucharist) the Spaniards used 3 and 1/2 tons of silver from Guanajato, Mexico.  We were considering asking to take some back but thought better of that idea.  It is really a magnificent structure.  The architecture is unbelievable but we were hurried due to the tour.  One detail that I thought was interesting is that the front door of the Cathedral is only opened for the Pope or the King and Queen of Spain.  Oh to be a member of the privileged class.

Our next stop was to the Macarena Basilica.  There is an image of the Virgin of Guadalupe there as soon as you come in on the right.  It is another very beautiful but much smaller church.  We also walked around the typical neighborhood of Santa Cruz in Seville.  There are tons of little cafes and restaurants, shops and boutique hotels.  The streets are super narrow and I will try to find a photo (of the 500) that clearly shows the intimacy.  We went back in the afternoon when we were on our own. There is also a Jewish neighborhood of the Sephardic Jews who made Spain their home.  There are flamenco and gypsy
souvenirs everywhere. Seville is the most famous for the flamenco and there are shows nightly.

Our last stop after lunch (on our own) was to visit the Real Alcazar, which is the summer "home" to the Spanish royalty.  It is an unbelievably grandiose example of Arabic and Spanish architecture.  It took us an hour and a half just to walk through the many rooms.  This is a place that you would really need to see, so again, we bought the DVD and with luck, it will not be stolen!  The intertwined history of the Arabs, and the Catholics in the south of Spain is evident throughout this site.  I thought that Connie and Ajaz would find this place absolutely fascinating.

Tomorrow we will take the train at 9:45 to Madrid to spend our last weekend with Pepe, our former neighbor, from Mexico City.  We are excited to see him and it will be a nice way to finish our trip.

Wednesday, May 18, 2011

May 18, 2011

Today we left Lisbon in the morning, but first stopped to pick up the laundry. The good news is that our underwear was not dry-cleaned or starched.  The ladies were very excited to me and helped me pack the clothes.  We then stopped at a supermarket after a bit of an odyssey to buy some "white" port which we had tried last night in the restaurant.  They did not have the one we had tried so I bought another brand.  The little supermarket was crowded with women doing their daily shopping and it was not an efficient system.  We are spoiled in the US.  The worst thing is that most of us don't realize HOW spoiled we are.  It rained most of the way from Lisbon to Seville.  It took about 4 hours, after filling the tank which was ONLY $130.00! If you think gas prices are high in the States, imagine here!

Our adventure today began in earnest in trying to find our hotel.  The GPS sent us down winding one way tiny streets into a real maze in a so-so district.  After about an hour of trying to get to the hotel, one gentleman gave us some help in circumventing the construction on the street where the hotel was located all torn up.  He told us we would have to go just about half a block in the wrong direction, but there was no other way to get where we needed to go.  Sure enough, as soon as we got to the end of the half block, we ran right into 4 police officers who pulled us over.  After a big lecture and taking all our information from Mario's FL driver's license  and the international license, he let us go, apparently without a ticket. We decided to call the hotel, have them send us a taxi to pick me and all the luggage up and drive us back to the hotel. Mario had to return the rental car.  The girl at the hotel gave us directions, but did not understand why we wanted a taxi.  Even though we spoke Spanish, she did not understand our dilemma or the frustration we were feeling about driving around in circles.  It was getting later and later and Mario had to return the car and handle all the stuff about the broken window, so we decided to look for the rental place and then get a taxi.  OMG!!  We finally got out of the maze and I said, we can't stay at this hotel.  The area is patchy.  I can't imagine this place at night and we will have no car.  We ended up going to another hotel which ironically is right in front of the train station, which we will need on Friday morning when we go to Madrid.  Of course, this hotel is a lot more expensive, but we decided that it was worth losing the other two nights at the other hotel just to feel safe.

I checked us in while Mario went to fill the car to deliver it 100% full and then to drop it off and do all the paperwork.  Mario left and the people at the second hotel were fantastic.  (They should be at the price they are charging.)  I called the travel agent and told him what happened.  He said he would try to get the second night back for us.  Mario called about 30 minutes later that as he pulled into the gas station, he remembered he had given me his wallet after talking to the officers, so he did not have enough Euros to fill the tank and no paperwork for the car rental place, so he came back to the hotel.  He got his wallet and started out again. I prepared our room so that when he came back, he would have clean clothes in the drawers, etc,  He was gone a long time. Finally he came back and said that no one really knew where the rental agency was, but it turned out to be at the train station-yes- across the street from the hotel!!  Then the kicker was that instead of being reimbursed for the acrylic plate in the wing window, they informed him that he would be paying for a new window via the deductible on the insurance policy.  The deductible is around $1200.00!!!!  They did not care that we had a police report, had gotten the window taken care of to protect the car or anything else.  So, we will have to wait for the bill.  Mario will contact the travel agent because that was certainly not what we thought would happen. In the meantime, I called the first hotel to let them know that we could not get to the hotel, that we had been stopped by the police and that they would not send a taxi to help us (even though we were willing to pay for it).  The girl at the hotel got very defensive, made it all our fault and said we would be charged for two nights.  I told her that frankly at that point, I didn't care.

So, about 8 o'clock we finally had lunch (dinner) next door and decided that tomorrow is another day.  We will do a bus tour of Seville and look on the bright side.  We are safe and comfortable.

Tuesday, May 17, 2011

May 17, 2011

The day started with the mundane:  find a laundromat to do a quick wash for the rest of the trip and find the place where we can get the glass replaced in the wing window.  We found the laundromat without too much trouble although their window really was advertising dry cleaning.  I had to convince Mario they were not going to dry clean his boxers and I had an interesting conversation with the woman in charge who wrote down every piece of clothing we were bringing in to wash.  She did not speak any Spanish or English and again, I muddled through with limited, very limited Portuguese and lots of hand signals.  Tomorrow we will pick up the laundry, I hope.  Next we went to find the Glass Express to replace the window.  Eduarda, the hotel receptionist, had done a lot of prep for us on the phone after we realized that the place we had the appointment with was more than 40 miles away.  We found a closer location.  The solution was to put in an acrylic piece into the window as a temporary, but satisfactory fix.  That was 25 Euros and about an hour's wait at the garage.  They were super efficient and really nice.  Then we left for Fatima, about an hour away.

We had a phenomenal day at Fatima and were so blessed to have few tourists and great parking.  May 13th is the annual celebration at Fatima and there are always hundreds of thousands of people at the shrine and in the little town.  Since it was over a weekend, and Monday was the 16th, we were some of the few to visit after the big celebration.  We got to pray the rosary in the chapel, in Portuguese, and attend Mass at 3 in the afternoon.  We lit candles for our Emmaus community, for all our families and friends and one for our little family of three. We took lots of pictures, bought lots of little mementos and left around 6 in the afternoon.  We spent 5 hours at the shrine.  If we had gone with a tour, it would have been only 2 hours and I know we would have been rushed.  It is immense and we did not see a lot of it.  I don't know how people can get through it less.

Tonight we saw a little of Lisbon which is a very cosmopolitan, sophisticated city, thanks to our cab driver, Luis.  He is very proud of his city, his nationality and heritage.  We went to dinner in a minimalist, very modern restaurant called Bocca.  Rodolfo, the hotel clerk had recommended it.  It is nouvelle cusine.  Great food, beautiful atmosphere and a bit pricey, but worth it.

Tomorrow we will leave for Seville.  It is a five hour drive and we have to turn in the car.  That will be an interesting conversation.

Monday, May 16, 2011

May 16, 2011

Well, our words were prophetic about crime.  Our side wing window was broken overnight or early in the morning even though we left it in a parking area and paid the meter. We even paid the watchman in the neighborhood.  Our hotel reception clerk assured us that the only thing we needed to worry about was making sure the meter was paid at 8 AM because they start towing cars at that hour.  We lost some souvenirs including the DVD from El Soplao and a necklace. They looked in all the nooks and crannies obviously-left the dirty clothes and the car tools.  The car is insured, but we needed to take care of the window.

The biggest hassle has been doing the police report and trying to get the window replaced.  We started with the local police station-pitiful-but the cop, an older gentleman did feel sorry for us but spoke no Spanish or English.  We muddled through in Portuguese.  We ended up at the Police Station for the Ministry of Tourism and completed the report.  The officer there was completely fluent in English and Spanish.  He told us to drive to the Porto airport and have the car exchanged by the rental agency.  We drove to the Porto airport-about 30 minutes.  It turns out that there is a National car rental place there but they are agents of the leasing company in Spain.  Again, no Spanish or English.  We did manage to hear the supervisor say she was going to eat breakfast when we were asking for help.  We sat outside the agency (disgusted) and tried to contact the office in Spain for customer assistance.  When we finally got through on our cell phone, the girl, who was very nice, told us to contact the Bilbao office where we had picked up the car.  She had been trying and they were not answering, so we tried too, and they did not answer.  By this time, our Mexican resourcefulness took over and we taped up the window with paper and a plastic bag so we could at least protect it somewhat. I sat in the back seat as there was glass everywhere.  We also contacted to travel agent in Germany for guidance and he was helpful, did a lot of the leg work on the phone for us and promised to call later, which he did with some options.

We decided to drive to Obidos, a quaint little town about 3 hours on the way to Lisbon.  We couldn't go to Fatima today because there was no way we could leave all our luggage in the parking lot with a broken window.   Obidos was lovely, but crowded and again, we took turns looking around while one of us stayed with the car in the parking lot.  This has been a very stressful day.  Hopefully, tomorrow, we will go to Fatima with a repaired window, but in the worst case scenario all our stuff is here in a great hotel room in Lisbon. So we will go with or without a broken window.  We tried to get a tour to avoid driving all together, but it only runs on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday. Of course! Right now, it is 9:30 PM and our hotel clerk here in Lisbon has been helpful in getting us some names of car glass places that make house calls.  We just sent an email to the place-in Portuguese-hope that works out!  More tomorrow.